Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a exclusive group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these narratives and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
